Alcohol in Skincare: The Good, the Bad, and the Misunderstood
Is alcohol bad for your skin?
We often hear that skincare products containing alcohol cause dryness. But is this always true? Not necessarily.
There’s a lot of confusion surrounding different types of alcohol used in skincare. When most of us hear “alcohol,” we immediately picture a bottle of drugstore rubbing alcohol, known for its drying properties. However, not all alcohols are the same. Some can be drying, but others are emollients that help your skin retain moisture. The difference lies in the molecular structure of the alcohol and the amount used in the formulation.
Understanding Alcohol in Skincare
In chemistry, “alcohol” refers to any molecule with an -OH (hydroxyl) group attached to a carbon atom. Alcohols can vary in size based on the number of carbon atoms they contain. Short-chain alcohols have 1-3 carbon atoms, while long-chain alcohols have more than 8 carbon atoms. This difference in structure affects how alcohols behave on your skin.
The Drying Alcohols
The drying alcohols we’re most familiar with are short-chain alcohols like isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and ethyl alcohol (the alcohol found in drinks). These alcohols are often listed on ingredient labels with the suffix “-ol,” so you might also see them called isopropanol or ethanol. Isopropanol is the common rubbing alcohol that is toxic if ingested, while ethanol is the type of alcohol found in beverages.
In skincare, isopropyl and ethyl alcohol are typically used in products like hand sanitizers, harsher toners, and other formulations where they act as preservatives or solvents. You may also see denatured alcohol or alcohol denat. listed on product labels—these are just other terms for ethyl alcohol that’s been chemically altered to make it undrinkable.
Why are these alcohols drying? Their small molecular size allows them to penetrate the skin quickly and deeply, which can lead to dehydration. If you have conditions like rosacea, it’s especially important to avoid these short-chain alcohols, as they can exacerbate irritation and trigger flare-ups.
The “Good” Alcohols
Not all alcohols are bad for your skin. There are also long-chain alcohols, also known as fatty alcohols, which act as emollients and are beneficial for the skin. These alcohols are derived from natural oils like coconut and palm, and instead of being liquids, they are waxy solids. You’ll often find them listed on ingredient labels as cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol.
What do fatty alcohols do? Their main role in skincare products is to act as stabilizers, helping to keep oil and water emulsions from separating. They also improve the texture and appearance of the product, giving it a smooth and creamy feel. Most importantly, fatty alcohols are emollients, meaning they help soften and hydrate the skin, locking in moisture without being toxic or irritating.
The OSBB Bottom Line
While some alcohols can be drying and irritating, others can enhance the texture and hydration of your skincare products. Understanding the difference between short-chain and long-chain alcohols is key to making informed choices for your skin. So next time you see alcohol on a skincare label, don’t automatically assume it’s bad—check which type it is before deciding whether to avoid it.
